Here’s a topic I hold particularly dear to my heart. I’m a devoted apostle of the manufacturer Rolex, defending it no matter what. Not because I’m so narrow-minded that I only live by this brand, but because its critics lose themselves to often in vague and groundless arguments. Of course, some positions are comprehensible and quite right, but too many are ignorant and pointless and deserve to be put in their place, with respect and modesty as always.
So What about Rolex bashing?
Setting: A dinner party at a friend’s home.
Nicolas: Nicolas, pleased to meet you (while pouring himself a drink).
Bernard: Likewise… Hard day? What do you do?
Nicolas: Hard, but good day. I work in media, for Les Rhabilleurs, an online magazine specializing in watchmaking, beautiful pieces, and style in general. We also sell collector’s timepieces and bracelets.
Bernard, surprised and curious: What kind of watches are you interested in?
Nicolas: All kinds, from Rolex to vintage Omega, to legendary diver watches or recent and original pieces like a single-hand MeisterSinger.
Bernard, offended: I hate Rolex. It’s really a brand for the nouveau riche, a watch that Sarkozy wore on his yacht.
Nicolas, with veins bulging out his neck: Okay Bernard…let me tell you a story.
Today, talking about the crown brand has become synonymous with never-ending debates. Sometimes, no debates, but a friendly conversation between aficionados of beautiful pieces. But more often than not, the word Rolex is a detonator for explosive, heated exchanges.
“That brand for the nouveau riche,” “A brand for posers,” “Sarkozy’s watch,” and so on. And it’s Rolex that takes the punches. At times, I try to argue with honesty and my humble experience to defend the manufacturer. At other times, I prefer keeping my mouth shut because the person in front of me refuses to hear anything at all, and even has the audacity to judge those who wear Rolex watches.
Why the hate?
Watchmaking ignorance, first and foremost
In most cases, the person who’s arguing with me knows less than nothing. Not even an inkling of watchmaking know-how. These are the same individuals who think that the Submariner works on battery. I usually say: “Do you know a bit about the manufacturer Rolex and the watches from the brand?” You can easily guess their reply.
Clearly there’s nothing wrong with not knowing much about watchmaking. But it doesn’t prevent us from being interested, even briefly, in what we’re unfamiliar with. Above all, refrain from blurting out degrading remarks when you don’t even know what a mechanical watch is. Let’s be open-minded! Siding with simple-minded haters because it’s trendy is not a good way to distinguish oneself. It’s the best way to look superficial and flaky.
How I love explaining to people what a mechanical watch is, the history of Rolex and other great manufacturers, and fully express my passion! In the same way that I’m all ears when the same people talk to me about subjects I’m unfamiliar with.
What to do, what to say then?
In my opinion, two kinds of arguments work in this case. We must differentiate the Rolex of today from the Rolex of yesterday. Even if the watches today have different positioning strategies, quality never suffers. We cannot criticize those who don’t like Rolex for their shape or design. Everyone is entitled to their proper taste. For the rest, it’s more delicate.
We have to start with the beginnings of the manufacturer, big dreams of water-resistance, and the aspiration to develop an elegant and chic watch. We also have to talk about the different lines who’ve successfully braved the decades without the slightest wrinkle, and the use of these watches in various extreme conditions. What’s important is the process of production, their movements and their reliability. 100% made in-house. Of course, we haven’t forgotten the marketing genius Hans Wilsdorf and the magic he worked on the brand. In no way does this diminish the legitimacy of the brand. On the contrary, it’s part of the game.
The Rolex of yesterday and today
We cannot deny the fact that Rolex has taken advantage of its reputation as the easy no-fail choice for watchmaking neophytes. Hence creating all the negative talk about gifts for the nouveau riche. But this is exactly why the so-called “nouveau riche,” unsure of their knowledge in watchmaking, but sure of the quality of the brand, sees Rolex as a risk-free investment.
I often read today that the GMT-Master II “Pepsi” is out of reach at Rolex. I completely agree. A pricey 35 000 € because this “sport” watch doesn’t exist in stainless-steel (this would be a nice surprise to see at Basel…), is just unthinkable. It’s also difficult to believe that 1000 € separates the Submariner Date and a Submariner without date. There appears to be a deliberate shortage in their offer not to mention the long waiting lists before finally seeing a Daytona on your wrist.
This encourages us all the more to look into vintage pieces
Vintage watches are among the most collected, the most appreciated for factors cited in various articles, especially on the GMT-Master and the Daytona.
Then yes, we can criticize Rolex for certain things but nothing changes, nor will ever change, the prestige of the legendary manufacturer that has made Rolex what it is today. It still holds the title as the ultimate sport watch, one that truly lasts a lifetime and gives you that same incredible feeling every single morning.
Forget preconceived notions. Let’s learn to love Rolex again for what it is: timelessness, reliability, design and performance. I won’t say that our point of view itself isn’t influenced by the crown… Perhaps.
The heart has its reasons which reason knows nothing of.
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